The Dress Makes the Man, Haute Couture – A New Era provides a unique glimpse behind the scenes of a long-standing fashion genre undergoing radical change.
The exhibition is based on Fredrik Robertsson’s spectacular contemporary haute couture collection and explores two main themes: the revival of handcrafted fashion in the 21st century as well as the rise of personal style and self-expression in the digital era.
Fredrik Robertsson is one of very few men who custom orders hand-sewn creations from Parisian haute couture houses. The exhibition showcases some of his most spectacular garments from leading fashion houses including Alexis Mabille, Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda, JeanPaul Gaultier, Iris van Herpen, Stéphane Rolland, Schiaparelli, Valentino,Viktor & Rolf and Vivienne Westwood, as well as from experimental designers such as Richard Quinn and Robert Wun.
Since the mid 19th century, the haute couture houses of Paris have been creating high-end, hand-made fashion – exclusively for women. Today, a transformation of this traditional genre is under way. A new generation of designers have taken over as artistic directors and a new category of expressive clients have discovered the highest level of fashion.
Fredrik Robertsson is one of the leading figures in the new wave of haute couture clients. Since investing in his first creation just under ten years ago, he has amassed an outstanding collection of meticulously selected garments – originally designed for women – which have been tailored to his body. With his eye-catching, gender-fluid style he has become a style role model and a muse on the international fashion scene, at a time when the boundary between female and male has been blurred and feminine coded garments such as the dress have entered the male wardrobe.
Some 50 of Fredrik Robertsson’s creations are on view, as well as a large number of unique photographs by Ea Czyz documenting Robertsson’s visits to Paris over the years. Together they provide unique insights into the art of self-expression and the new era of Paris haute couture, from the front row and backstage at the fashion shows, to the fitting room and the sewing ateliers where the extravagant garments take shape.
The exhibition is curated by Susanna Strömquist in collaboration with Fredrik Robertsson. The catalogue, with the same title as the exhibition, is written by Susanna Strömquist with essays by Maria Ben Saad, Beckmans College of Design and Madison Moore, Brown University. Exhibition design and Graphic design by Robin Grann, photography by Ea Czyz and Vanessa Tryde.
Couturiers represented in the exhibition
Alexis Mabille, Amanda Borgfors Mészáros, Annaëlle Reudink, Balenciaga by Demna, Bea Szenfeld, Camilla Thulin, Christian Dior, Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda, Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria, Iris van Herpen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jean Paul Gaultier by Glenn Martens, Maged Bou Tanous, Maiko Takeda, Malinda Damgaard, Noritaka Tatehana, On Aura Tout Vu, Philip Treacy, Piers Atkinson, Quentin Veron, Richard Quinn, Robert Wun, Sandra Backlund, Schiaparelli by Daniel Roseberry, Stéphane Rolland, Stephen Jones, Tomo Koizumi, Ulyana Sergeenko, Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli, Viktor & Rolf, Vivienne Westwood.
The exhibition and the exhibition catalogue have been produced by Liljevalchs Konsthall. It was first shown at Liljevalchs+, (Stockholm, Sweden) October 13, 2023 – February 11, 2024.
